There is at least one topic in sportswear that triggered a bigger controversy than Serena Williams’ catsuits or wearing tennis socks in leather shoes : leggings !
They are fashion problematic child.
Even though, attitudes towards those differed slightly so far, between the US and France. Whilst it has become common to see pictures of American stars in spandex, in Paris, it used to be acceptable (fashion-wise) for sports purposes only. And all the better if you could leave them in the changing room not to be seen in the street in them. Yet, as with many things, the pandemic got some of us to bend our long lasting strict Parisian fashion principles.
So, is it now OK to wear leggings outside of the gym ?
« The telltale sign of the pandemic legging: women who never wore them out of the house before have caved to comfort. » said the New York Times, in November 2020.
When you type the question in Google, you will come across reassuring tips to help you style them in an acceptable fashion (see here for instance).
If new social standards for women seem to be more flexible (yet still doubting, for most, whether this can truly be considered as good taste, even though acceptable now -cf the ‘can I wear leggings to work?’ query), the jury is still out for men.
“Anyone up on their @shiafits will know that ball-crushing spandex leggings have always informed the LaBeouf sartorial mythology. They are anti-fashion to the point where pulling on a pair outside of a yoga studio can almost feel like an act of subversion, which for a fit god who doesn’t abide by the rules, holds part of the appeal.”
Highsnobiety, November 2020
Oscillating between a sign of liberation and a give-up
Comfort now seems to be an OK word in fashion. Leggings were definitely part of the above-the-keyboard dress uniform. Leggings have also been millenials attribute signalling the overarching wellness trend (the same way the water bottle now acts as a signal for genZ commitment towards a more sustainable way of living).
As the New York Times rightfully noted : « Leggings have been a staple of workouts, errands and lounging at home for well over a decade now, but wearing them often came with a slew of excuses: I just got back from the gym. I’m bloated. It’s the weekend. »
In December 2020, The Guardian paradoxically asked whether leggings could be the answer to fashion problems : “Fashion is in crisis, but spandex is thriving. Sales are up more than 60%, according to the trend forecasting agency WGSN, while searches have doubled year on year, says Lyst, fashion’s answer to Google. More than statistics though, there was the defining image of 2020 politics: Kamala Harris, the first woman of colour to be elected vice-president in America, making “the call” to Joe Biden in a pair of Nike leggings.”
If Kamala can do it, we probably should just do it too, then.
Sportswear Era 